STAFF

Melbourne, Victoria, Australia 3000

174

STAFF 

CAROLINA HERRERA SPRING 2017

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A designer packs a lot of creation into 35 years. As her big 35th anniversary approached, Carolina Herrera looked back on her career, distilling favorite imagery into a celebratory book published by Rizzoli. She found plenty of diversity — tons of fashion has come and gone since 1981 — but also a consistent adherence to elegance and chic. For this collection, Herrera wanted to look back, specifically to her first collection, and draw from it. “So it’s more or less a take on these things I had, but done for today,” she said backstage at the Frick, its calm elegance once again offering a welcome respite from show madness.

“Today” was front and center. In recent seasons, Herrera’s aesthetic has evolved toward simplicity. While her designs are hardly plain, she’s recently tempered the excess in a way that has highlighted the clothes’ inherent chic. For spring, she kept a minimal palette — black and white, blue (as in denim), khaki and a hint of pink here or there in a lustrous brocade.

She worked volume in gentle constructions. A sculpted denim dress with neckline drape; a khaki shirtdress with brocade overskirt that radiated sophistication. On the younger side of her range, which Herrera has also been developing of late: a pair of romantic tiered skirts paired with charming white sweaters, one lean with buttoned sleeves and a coquette feel, the other, loose with black piping and a von Trapp uniform vibe. And if a third sweater, with “35” emblazoned on the sleeve, fell to the contemporary side of on-brand, it was but a singular indulgence.

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Melbourne,
Victoria, Australia

 
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